22-Day Road Tour of Norway V (中文)

Part V： Lofoten to Tromsø

挪威自驾游之五：从罗弗敦到特罗姆瑟

The west coast of North Norway is a paradise for travel lovers.

Nordland is a county in North Norway. It has an endless rugged coastline with thousands of islands. Lofoten archipelagos (islands) especially have astonishing landscape - the dramatic combination of the unique mountain peaks by the blue sea, the colorful fishing villages and the peaceful beaches.

挪威北部的西海岸是旅行爱好者的天堂。 诺德兰（Nordland）是挪威北部的一个县。 它有崎岖的海岸线和成千上万个岛屿。 罗弗敦群岛（Lofoten）是诺德兰的一部分，它的景观令人叹为观止：蔚蓝色的大海，色彩缤纷的渔村和奇异的山峰形成了戏剧性的结合。

The famous Lofoten was our first stop in North Norway. We followed the direction of the web site “Norway’s Tourist Routes” (https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/lofoten ) and did our 5 day self-driving in Lofoten Islands, which was quite a life time experience.

著名的罗弗敦（Lofoten）是我们在北部挪威的第一站。 我们循“挪威国家旅游路线”（https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/lofoten）的指引，在罗弗敦作了为期5天的自驾游。这是毕生的难忘之旅。

Lofoten from the sky 空中俯瞰

Though Lofoten is one of the best places to watch the northern light, its summer is also fantastic. The temperature is comfortable and the water is so green! Since all the roads are open in the summer, one can easily visit most of the islands. The only disadvantage of visiting here in the summer is that you can hardly catch the twilight (giving best photos), because the sun never sets.

尽管罗弗敦（Lofoten）以观赏北极光著称，它的夏天也非常迷人， 气温舒适，碧水蓝天。 由于所有道路都开放，游人可以轻松涉足大多数岛屿。 但夏天到此旅游的缺憾是，由于太阳永不落山，所以难以捕捉到清晨或日暮的微光景色。

We flew into the capital of Lofoten, Svolvær on July 2, 2019 and drove through most of the islands and scenic spots in Lofoten, including Grunnfor, Eggum, Leknes, Ballstad, Nusfjord, Ramberg, and Reine.

我们于2019年7月2日飞抵罗弗敦的首都，斯沃尔韦尔（Svolvær），驱车穿越了罗弗敦的大部分岛屿和风景名胜区，包括格伦福，艾格姆，莱克内斯，巴尔斯塔德，努斯峡湾，拉姆贝格和雷纳。

The red line on the map is E10, European Route 10, that connects all the islands in Lofoten.

地图中的红线是E10号公路（欧洲10号）。它贯穿罗弗敦的主要岛屿。

Arriving Svolvear

This is a really small airport. We picked up our rental car upon arrival and drove out of Svolvær on the same day.

斯沃尔韦尔机场非常小。我们在此提取了预定的租车后就在当天离开了斯沃尔韦尔。

Kabelvåg Church

Immediately outside of Svolvær, there is Kabelvåg Church. it was also nicknamed as the “Lofoten Cathedral”. According to Wikipedia, “This has been a church site since the 12th century… Five or six different churches have been built on this very location throughout the last 900 years.” “This present church was built in 1898 to be large enough to accommodate all the fishermen who came to Kabelvåg each season.”

在斯沃尔韦尔（Svolvær）外围不远处有一个卡贝尔沃格教堂（Kabelvåg Church）。 它也被昵称为“罗弗敦大教堂”。 根据维基百科，“自12世纪以来，这里一直是教堂所在地。在过去的900年中，在此建造过五六个不同的教堂。” “目前这个教堂建于1898年，其大小足以容纳每个季节来到卡贝尔沃格的所有渔民。”

Kabelvåg Church

Unique seaside mountains and colorful cabins on the sea shore is a typical scenery in Lofoten.

罗弗敦（Lofoten）的典型风景是奇特的海边山脉加岸边色彩斑斓的小屋。

What caught our attention first was Norwegian’s interesting fishing industry. Dried fish heads were every where to catch the attention of tourists.

渔业文化是首先映入到访者眼帘的一道独特风景。 干鱼头到处吸引着游客的目光。

到处可见晾晒的鱼头

Fish farm (above and below) 养鱼场（上下图）

The red rorbuors (above) are everywhere in Lofoten. They used to be fishing huts during the fishing season. Now, many of them were turned into vacation rental cabins.

罗弗敦处处可见红色的小板房（上图）。 他们过去曾经是捕鱼季节的渔人小屋，现在其中很多变成了出租度假屋。

In Lofoten, there are many of these bridges (above) which connect island to island.

在罗弗敦，有许多这样的桥梁把诸多岛屿连接起来。

From Svolvear (Svolvær), we first drove northwest to Eggum, a fishing village lies on the seaside of Vestvågøy island.

我们首先从斯沃威尔 (Svolvær) 向西北开往艾格姆 （Eggum），这是一个位于Vestvågøy岛上的海边渔村。

There is a gate at the entrance of Eggum village. Some 100 NOK entrance fee was required. We debated whether to enter or not, but were glad that we did. The lush meadows with blooming wild flowers between mountains and the sea took our breath away.

Eggum的村口处有一个自动收费处，游客大约需要投入150挪威克朗。 我们曾犹豫是否要进去，后来庆幸没有省这个钱：）高山和大海之间有着郁郁葱葱的草地和村庄，盛开的野花点缀其间。其情景让人流连忘返。

There is some sort of stone structure like an amphitheater in the end of the road. Many people were picnicking and camping there or waiting for sunset.

村中小路的尽头有类似露天剧场的石头建筑。 许多人在这里野餐，露营或等待日落。

Near Eggum, there is another seaside village, Unstad, that is also very beautiful!

埃格姆（Eggum）附近有另一个海滨村落，Unstad，也很漂亮。（下）

Coming back from the north shore, we drove by the town of Leknes in the central area of Lofoten. It is a prosperous town as the trade and shopping center of Lofoten where you can easily find lodging and restaurants.

从北岸回来，我们途径罗弗敦中部地区的莱克内斯（Leknes）镇。 这是一个繁荣的小镇，一个相当规模的贸易和购物中心。这里有北部挪威有名的渔业博物馆和维京博物馆，而且很容易在此找到住宿和餐厅。

This lake near Leknes is so beautiful with a small boat docking in the center.

近旁有恬静迷人的湖泊

Driving from one place to another in Lofoten also means you experience the drastically different landscape, from peaceful meadows and swamps to dramatic mountain scenery.

在罗弗敦从一处开车到另一处也意味着体验截然不同的风景，从宁静的沼泽到雄伟粗旷的山峦。

From Leknes to Ballstad 从莱克内斯到巴尔斯塔德

Where we stayed for the first night in Lofoten is a fishing village called Ballstad. This is such a tranquil and beautiful place!

我们在罗弗敦住了第一晚的地方是一个叫做Ballstad的渔村， 这是一个那样宁静而美丽的地方！

It was sunny when we arrived Svolvear, but it started raining in the evening when we were looking for a place to stay. (I lost my hotel reservation)

我们下午到达Svolvear时还天气晴朗，但傍晚当我们寻找住宿地点时却开始下起雨来。 由于丢失了住宿预订，当晚的投宿颇费了一番周折。

The rain stopped the next morning. 次日雨过天晴。

From Ballstad to Reine. 我们从巴尔斯塔德前往雷纳。

On the second day in Lofoten, we came to Reine, the most important photo destination in Lofoten.

雷纳是罗弗敦最著名的摄影胜地

Reine is a fishing village situated on a promontory just off E10 .

这是一个位于E10旁边海角上的渔村。

Reine has been selected as the most beautiful Norwegian village in late 1970s by a Norwegian magazine, Allers.

A magnificent photograph over Reine from the mountain Reinebringen ( 448 m above sea level) has been used as a classic portrait of Reine by several travel magazines. Unfortunately, hiking that mountain is not suitable for us. Using a drone to take the pictures of Reine provided some sort of compensation for us.

雷讷（Reine）被挪威杂志《 Allers》选为1970年代后期最美丽的挪威村庄。

数本旅行杂志曾将附近的雷讷布林根山（Reinebringen）上的拍摄的雷讷风景照作为罗弗敦的经典肖像。 不幸的是，我的体力不足以攀登那座山，只好用无人驾驶飞机摄影来作为某种补偿。

We’ve got one and a half sunny days in Lofoton, which allowed us to record the amazing color contrast of this beautiful place.

我们在罗弗敦获得了一天半的晴天，这使我们有机会记录下这里令人惊艳色彩对比。

覆有茵茵绿草的屋顶再次显现芳姿

Reine

Above and below are Rostad Roebuer, a place we stayed in Reine for one night.

我们在Rostad渔民小屋度过了在雷纳的第一晚

The surroundings of Rostad Rorbuer were very nice, except our cabin wasn’t too good.

周遭的风景很美，可惜我们的小屋不怎么样。

View from the cabin

Dried fish heads

The above and below are the views from Hamnøy Bridge that is perhaps the most popular photography location in Lofoten. Looking over a collection of red Rorbur with the Festhelltinden mountain looming behind .

上图和下图是从雷纳的Hamnøy桥上所见的风景，这可能是罗弗敦最受欢迎的摄影场所。 红色的渔村和后面的高耸Festhelltinden山尽收眼底。

The second night in Reine, we stayed in a rental house in Reinehalsen, which was much better! Below are the views from the house.

在雷讷的第二个晚上，我们住在雷讷哈尔森（Reinehalsen）的一间出租房里。这一间条件要好得多！ 下图是屋外的景色。

3 am after sunrise 凌晨三点的窗外

After exploring the south part of Lofoten Islands, we started to head back to the central and northern areas of Lofoten Islands. Before reaching Nusfjord, we first hit Ramburg a hub town sitting on the main road, E10.

在探访了南部罗弗敦之后，我们开回到群岛的中部和北部地区。 在前往努斯峡湾之前，我们先到达了位于E10公路上的枢纽小镇，拉姆贝格。

Ramberg 拉姆贝格

The long white sand beach and the green water make Ramberg like a paradise.

长长的白沙滩是拉姆贝格标志性的景点

Ramberg fish farm 拉姆贝格养鱼场

After Ramberg, we made a right turn on E10, a country road led us to Nusfjord, a famous historical fishing village.

在拉姆贝格之后，我们从E10公路转上一条乡间小路来到著名的古渔村努斯峡湾（Nusfjord）。

Road to Nusfjord 去往努斯峡湾的路边景色

Nusfjord is one of the oldest fishing villages in the Lofoten Islands. Buildings in the village can date back to 1800s or early 1900s. Tucked behind a huge rock, the village is situated in a calm bay, tranquil and cozy. It is now a tourism destination with all the fishing huts remodeled into vacation rentals.

努斯湾是罗弗敦群岛最古老的渔村之一。 村庄的房屋建筑可以追溯到1800年代或1900年代初。 渔村隐蔽在一个大岩石后面，海湾内显得热闹而祥和。 现在，努斯湾已成为一个旅游胜地，小渔屋便都改建成了度假屋。内部装修很漂亮哦！

Historical buildings became the nesting sites for gulls.

Today’s Nusfjord village is used as an open-air museum, complete with a cod liver refinery, fish market, and stores that sell various historical artifacts.

今天的努斯峡湾村被用转型为露天博物馆，内有曾经的鱼肝油提炼厂，老鱼市和历史文物商店。 捕鲸是挪威北部的一项古老传统，冬天那里的食物稀少。 如今，仍保留着小规模的捕鲸活动。 人们被允许食用一些鲸鱼肉。

In the village there is a wonderful restaurant where, for the first time, we tasted a whale stake that was really delicious.

这村子里有一家很棒的餐厅，我们在这里第一次品尝到了美味的鲸鱼排。

Whale stake

Whale hunting is an old tradition in North Norway, where food is scarce in winter. Today, small scale of whale hunting is still remaining. People are allowed to consume some whale meat.

捕鲸是北部挪威的古老传统。这里漫长的冬天使食物匮乏，鲸鱼肉便成为人们赖以生存的营养来源。 如今这里仍保留着小规模的捕鲸活动，人们可以少量食用一些鲸鱼肉。

After Nusfjord, we spent a night in Svolvær and prepared for leaving Lofoten Islands.

努斯峡湾过后，我们继续向东北驶向首都斯沃尔韦尔

Hanningsvear, Lofoten 途径汉宁斯维尔

我们在斯沃尔韦尔逗留一晚后离开罗弗敦群岛，前往更为北面的塞尼亚。

North to Svolvear, we explored two more pretty spots, Grunnfør (beaches, swamps and birds) and Austnesfjorden.

在斯沃尔韦尔（Svolvaer）北部，我们探访了另外两个罗弗敦景点，格伦弗（Grunnfør）和奥斯特菲约登（Austefjorden）。

格伦弗有美丽的沙滩，沼泽和飞鸟。

July 6, from Lofoten, we drove northward to  Andenes, the northernmost tip of Vesterålen islands.

7月6日，我们从罗弗敦北上到达维斯特朗岛（Vesterålen）最北端的安德内斯（Andenes）。

Although under the shadow of Lofoten, the remote Vesterålen islands still awed us.

虽然被罗弗敦的盛名所遮蔽，偏远的维斯特洛伦岛依然景色迷人。

From Andenes, we got on the car ferry to go to Senja, another wonderland of North Norway.

从安德内斯，我们乘汽车轮渡前往挪威北部另一个旅游胜地塞尼亚（Senja）。

Senja is also on the list of the 18 National Tourist Routes. Following the direction of the website, https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/senja, we drove through the spots of highlight such as Gryllefjord, Skaland and Tungeneset.

塞尼亚（Senja）也被列入在挪威的18条国家旅游路线中。 循该网站https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/senja的指引，我们浏览了Gryllefjord，Skaland和Tungeneset等景点。

Gryllefjord

After spending days in Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, we still find Senja very special and attractive! Its blue fjords, sculptural rocks, and colorful villages made us regret not having enough time here.

在经历了罗弗敦和维斯特洛伦岛之后，我们依然发现塞尼亚（Senja）非常特别而且迷人！ 它的蓝色峡湾，雕刻般的岩石和色彩斑斓的村庄使我们为匆忙的行程感到遗憾。

Hotel Hamn I in Gryllefjord near the ferry dock would be a very nice place to stay . The location is convenient and the surrounding is so beautiful! Unfortunately, we didn’t have a reservation there.

Gryllefjord

Skaland 斯卡兰德

Skaland

Tungeneset (below) is one of the most impressive attractions we visited in Norway. It lies on the tip of the promontory between the Steinsfjord and the Ersfjord. A nice wooden walkway leads out over the rocks to provide a view to the Northern Sea in the west and the mountain Oksen with the sharp peaks in the north.

斯卡兰德辖区内有一个叫Tungeneset（下图）的海边公园。这是我们在挪威参观过的最令人印象深刻的景点之一。 它位于斯坦因峡湾和埃尔斯峡湾之间的海角顶端。 一个考究的木制人行道通向一个又长又宽岩石海滩，走在高低起伏的岩石海滩上你可以欣赏到西面的北大西洋和北面奇峰突起的奥克森山。

Tungeneset

Tungeneset

Tungeneset

Senjahopen

After spending a day in Senja, we took ferry from Botnhamn (east side of Senja) and sail to Brensholmen, then drove to Tromso.

在塞尼亚岛度过一天一夜之后，我们乘渡轮航行至特朗姆郡（Troms）的Brensholmen，然后驱车前往目的地特朗姆瑟（Tromso）。

We arrived Tromso on July 7, 2019.

我们于7月7日抵达了特朗姆瑟

Kvaløysletta near Tromso

Tromso

Tromso marked the end of our 22-day road tour of Norway, from June 16 - July 7. Tromso is a lovely city that offers different cruises and excursions, including water safari and fjord sunset. We wish we had time for those.

In summery, we travelled from Oslo, the capital in the south to the west coast. Then all the way up to Nordland. The highlights of this journey included Telemark, Stavanger, Bergen, Flam, Hardanger, Geiranger, Trollstigen, Lofoten, and Senja. All of these places and the experiences were more than worthwhile and deserve the “seconds” if possible.

From Tromso, we were going to fly to Longyearbyen to start our expedition in Svalbard

从6月16日至7月7日，特罗姆瑟标志着我们为期22天的挪威之行的结束。

特罗姆瑟是一座美丽的城市，提供不同的游轮和短途旅行，包括海洋野生动物和峡湾日落。 可惜我们没有时间。

小结一下，我们从南部的首都奥斯陆到西海岸，然后一直北上到诺德兰。 这一旅程的亮点包括泰勒马克（Telemark），斯塔凡厄（Stavanger），卑尔根（Bergen），弗洛姆 （flam），哈当厄尔（Hardanger），盖朗厄尔（盖朗厄尔），托罗尔斯第根（精灵之路），罗弗敦和塞尼亚。 所有这些历程都是弥足珍贵，如果可能的话，值得再来一次。

从特罗姆瑟出发，我们将飞往朗伊尔城，开始在斯瓦尔巴群岛的探险

The end 全文完

22-Day Road Tour of Norway V

Part V： Lofoten to Tromso

The west coast of North Norway is a paradise for travel lovers.

Nordland is a county in North Norway. It has an endless rugged coastline with thousands of islands. Lofoten archipelagos (islands) especially have astonishing landscape - the dramatic combination of the unique mountain peaks by the blue sea, the colorful fishing villages and the peaceful beaches.

The famous Lofoten was our first stop in North Norway. We followed the direction of the web site “Norway’s Tourist Routes” (https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/lofoten ) and did our 5 day self-driving in Lofoten Islands, which was quite a life time experience.

Lofoten from the sky

Though Lofoten is one of the best places to watch the northern light, its summer is also fantastic. The temperature is comfortable and the water is so green! Since all the roads are open in the summer, one can easily visit most of the islands. The only disadvantage of visiting here in the summer is that you can hardly catch the twilight (giving best photos), because the sun never sets.

We flew into the capital of Lofoten, Svolvær on July 2, 2019 and drove through most of the islands and scenic spots in Lofoten, including Grunnfor, Eggum, Leknes, Ballstad, Nusfjord, Ramberg, and Reine.

The red line on the map is E10, European Route 10, that connects all the islands in Lofoten.

Arriving Svolvear

This is a really small airport. We picked up our rental car upon arrival and drove out of Svolvær on the same day.

Kabelvåg Church

Immediately outside of Svolvær, there is Kabelvåg Church. it was also nicknamed as the “Lofoten Cathedral”. According to Wikipedia, “This has been a church site since the 12th century… Five or six different churches have been built on this very location throughout the last 900 years.” “This present church was built in 1898 to be large enough to accommodate all the fishermen who came to Kabelvåg each season.”

A church in Svolvear

Unique seaside mountains and colorful cabins on the sea shore is a typical scenery in Lofoten.

What caught our attention first was Norwegian’s interesting fishing industry. Dried fish heads were every where to catch the attention of tourists.

Fish farm (above and below)

The red rorbuors (above) are everywhere in Lofoten. They used to be fishing huts during the fishing season. Now, many of them were turned into vacation rental cabins.

In Lofoten, there are many of these bridges (above) which connect island to island.

From Svolvear (Svolvær), we first drove northwest to Eggum, a fishing village lies on the seaside of Vestvågøy island.

There is a gate at the entrance of Eggum village. Some 100 NOK entrance fee was required. We debated whether to enter or not, but were glad that we did. The lush meadows with blooming wild flowers between mountains and the sea took our breath away.

There is some sort of stone structure like an amphitheater in the end of the road. Many people were picnicking and camping there or waiting for sunset.

Near Eggum, there is another seaside village, Unstad, that is also very beautiful!

Coming back from the north shore, we drove by the town of Leknes in the central area of Lofoten. It is a prosperous town as the trade and shopping center of Lofoten where you can easily find lodging and restaurants.

This lake near Leknes is so beautiful with a small boat docking in the center.

Driving from one place to another also means you experience the drastically different landscape, from peaceful meadows and swamps to dramatic mountain scenery..

From Leknes to Ballstad

Where we stayed for the first night in Lofoten is a fishing village called Ballstad. This is such a tranquil and beautiful place!

It was sunny when we arrived Svolvear, but it started raining in the evening when we were looking for a place to stay. (I lost my hotel reservation)

The rain stopped the next morning.

From Ballstad to Reine.

On the second day in Lofoten, we came to Reine, the most important photo destination in Lofoten.

Reine is a fishing village situated on a promontory just off E10 .

Reine has been selected as the most beautiful Norwegian village in late 1970s by a Norwegian magazine, Allers.

A magnificent photograph over Reine from the mountain Reinebringen ( 448 m above sea level) has been used as a classic portrait of Reine by several travel magazines. Unfortunately, hiking that mountain is not suitable for us. Using a drone to take the pictures of Reine provided some sort of compensation for us.

We’ve got one and a half sunny days in Lofoton, which allowed us to record the amazing color contrast of this beautiful place.

Reine

Above and below are Rostad Roebuer, a place we stayed in Reine for one night.

The surroundings of Rostad Rorbuer were very nice, except our cabin wasn’t too good.

View from the cabin

Dried fish heads

The above and below are the views from Hamnøy Bridge that is perhaps the most popular photography location in Lofoten. Looking over a collection of red Rorbus with the Festhelltinden mountain looming behind .

The second night in Reine, we stayed in a rental house in Reinehalsen, which was much better! Below are the views from the house.

3 am after sunrise

After exploring the south part of Lofoten Islands, we started to head back to the central and northern areas of Lofoten Islands. Before reaching Nusfjord, we first hit Ramburg a hub town sitting on the main road, E10.

Ramberg

The long white sand beach and the green water make Ramberg like a paradise.

Ramberg fish farm

After Ramberg, we made a right turn on E10, a country road led us to Nusfjord, a famous historical fishing village.

Road to Nusfjord

Nusfjord is one of the oldest fishing villages in the Lofoten Islands. Buildings in the village can date back to 1800s or early 1900s. Tucked behind a huge rock, the village is situated in a calm bay, tranquil and cozy. It is now a tourism destination with all the fishing huts remodeled into vacation rentals.

Historical buildings became the nesting sites for gulls.

Today’s Nusfjord village is used as an open-air museum, complete with a cod liver refinery, fish market, and stores that sell various historical artifacts.

In the village there is a wonderful restaurant where, for the first time, we tasted a whale stake that was really delicious.

Whale hunting is an old tradition in North Norway, where food is scarce in winter. Today, small scale of whale hunting is still remaining. People are allowed to consume some whale meat.

Whale stake

After Nusfjord, we spent a night in Svolvær and prepared for leaving Lofoten Islands.

Hanningsvear, Lofoten

North to Svolvear, we explored two more pretty spots, Grunnfør (beaches, swamps and birds) and Austnesfjorden.

July 6, from Lofoten, we drove northward to  Andenes, the northernmost tip of Vesterålen islands.

Although under the shadow of Lofoten, the remote Vesterålen islands still awed us.

From Andenes, we got on the car ferry to go to Senja, another wonderland of North Norway.

Senja is also on the list of the 18 National Tourist Routes. Following the direction of the website, https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/senja, we drove through the spots of highlight such as Gryllefjord, Skaland and Tungeneset.

Gryllefjord

After spending days in Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, we still find Senja very special and attractive! Its blue fjords, sculptural rocks, and colorful villages made us regret not having enough time here.

Hotel Hamn I in Gryllefjord near the ferry dock would be a very nice place to stay . The location is convenient and the surrounding is so beautiful! Unfortunately, we didn’t have a reservation there.

Gryllefjord

Skaland

Skaland

Tungeneset (below) is one of the most impressive attractions we visited in Norway. It lies on the tip of the promontory between the Steinsfjord and the Ersfjord. A nice wooden walkway leads out over the rocks to provide a view to the Northern Sea in the west and the mountain Oksen with the sharp peaks in the north.

Tungeneset

Tungeneset

Tungeneset

Senjahopen

After spending a day in Senja, we took ferry from Botnhamn (east side of Senja) and sail to Brensholmen, then drove to Tromso.

We arrived Tromso on July 7, 2019.

Kvaløysletta near Tromso

Tromso

Tromso marked the end of our 22-day road tour of Norway, from June 16 - July 7. Tromso is a lovely city that offers different cruises and excursions, including water safari and fjord sunset. We wish we had time for those.

In summery, we travelled from Oslo, the capital in the south to the west coast. Then all the way up to Nordland. The highlights of this journey included Telemark, Stavanger, Bergen, Flam, Hardanger, Geiranger, Trollstigen, Lofoten, and Senja. All of these places and the experiences were more than worthwhile and deserve the “seconds” if possible.

From Tromso, we were going to fly to Longyearbyen to start our expedition in Svalbard

The end

22-Day Road Tour of Norway IV （22天挪威之旅）

Part IV, From Geiranger to Alesund

挪威四，从盖朗厄尔到奥勒松

Geirangerfjord

We arrived at the amazing Geiranger on June 28. Not only was the fjord itself magnificent, but there were also other attractions. As one of the National Tourist Routes, the Old Stryn Mountain Road or Gamle Strynefjellsvegen (rv258) is another must for most tourists.

6月28日抵达著名的盖朗厄尔。这里不仅有壮观的峡湾，还有其他重要看点。 作为国家旅游路线之一的老斯特林山路（rv258）是大多数自驾游客的另一必游之境。

June 29th.  From the town of Geiranger, we drove out to the Old Stryn Mountain Road (rv258) via fv63 (which is always pretty). 

6月29日。 我们从盖朗厄尔镇出发，经由fv63（全程都很漂亮）开往老斯特林山路（见下图）

Norway’s Rv258 is known as Gamle Strynefjellsvegen (Old Stryn Mountain Road). It runs 27-kilometres between Stryn and Grotli.  Again this stunning scenic drive is closed in winter and reopens in June of the next year.  We were fortunate to be here in July of 2019. 

挪威的Rv258被称为老斯特林山路。 它是连接斯特林镇和格罗特利镇的27公里风景路段。像很多北欧旅游景点一样，这条美到极致的自驾路线会在冬天关闭，并于次年6月重新开放。 我们很幸运地于2019年7月造访了这里。

In the summer, Gamle Strynefjellsvegen runs by a half-melted ice river. The greenish blue water by melting glacier is mesmerizing.

夏季里，老斯特林山路与一条半融化的冰河并行。源自冰川的蓝绿色河水美得令人目炫。

Gamle Strynefjellsvegen continues onto highway 15 which leads to the town of Stryn, a beautiful little town which we wish to could have stayed for one night.

老斯特林山路与15号公路相延续，并通往美丽的斯特林镇（Stryn）。

Stryn is a very prosperous town. Here you can find many hotels, restaurants and a big shopping mall. It’s a good place to spend a night or stop for lunch. We stopped here for two hours in the middle of the day and had a great lunch in the mall.  Near Stryn on highway 15, there is a big beautiful lake, Lake Strynevatnet.

斯特林是一个繁荣的小镇。 这里有旅馆，餐厅和大型购物中心，是一个留宿一晚或停车午餐的好地方。 我们在这里消磨了两个小时（可惜不能留宿一晚），并在购物中心享用了可口的午餐。 斯特林的附近有一个美丽的大湖，斯特涅瓦湖（Lake Strynevatnet）。

Lake Strynevatnet

After a long lunch break we drove back to Gamle Strynefjellsvegen for the afternoon lighting.

午餐后，我们重回令人流连忘返的老斯特林山路

Driving fv63 back to Geiranger 

然后沿63号公路返回盖朗厄尔。

Djupvasshytta Hotel

We passed the above hotel on Fv63 and believed this would work better than our hotel in Geiranger.

Fv63途径这个路边旅馆（Djupvasshytta Hotel），看起来会比盖朗厄旅馆好些。

We stayed two nights in Hotel of Geiranger, which we wouldn’t recommend because of the noise.

我们在盖朗厄尔宾馆住宿了两晚，但不推荐这里，因为环境较嘈杂。

June 30th, from Geiranger, we set out towards Trollstigen.  From Geiranger to Trollstigen (145 km on Fv63) is known as “The Golden Route" of north Norway and is another one of the 18 National Tourist Routes. 

六月30日，我们离开盖朗厄尔前往特罗尔斯蒂根（精灵之路）。从盖朗厄尔到特罗斯蒂戈的145公里山路被誉为北部挪威的“黄金之路”，也是18条挪威经典国家旅游线路之一。

The drive along Geiranger–Trollstigen is more dramatic than most of the other National Tourist Routes. 

在这条路上行驶比其他国家旅游公路更感到惊心动魄。

The very beginning part of this route (northwest of Geiranger) is the world famous Eagle Road. This is the name given to the steepest stretch of road up the mountain side of Geiranger.

这条路的起始段（盖朗厄尔之北）就是世界著名的老鹰之路。这是盖朗厄尔湾山崖侧陡峭向上的一段山路。其得名是因为早前这里的山巅上曾经是大量老鹰的集居地。

It was called Eagle Road because at its highest point, the terrain had traditionally been the domain of a large number of eagles.

The Eagle Road swings through eleven hairpin bends up from the Geirangerfjord to the highest point, Ørnevegen, 620 metres above sea level at Korsmyra.  Due to the poor weather and the difficult driving conditions, we had no pictures for this road besides the ones on the very top.

老鹰之路是山崖上经过11道拐扶摇直上的崎岖道路。它的顶端是海拔620米的厄尔涅维根（Ørnevegen）景区。这段路的行驶十分艰苦，但到得山顶时却得到意外的惊喜。

Once we got to Ørnevegen, the sky cleared up a little and we found a large parking lot and a long spectator that offers a 180-degree view of  Geirangerfjord. To the left, one gets a spectacular view of the fjord and to the right , a view of Dei Sju Systre (the Seven Sisters) waterfalls.  

当我们辛苦抵达山顶时恰好云开日出，得以目睹盖朗厄尔峡湾迷人的风采。长长的观景台那天人头攒动，向左可以俯瞰整个峡湾，向右则是另一著名景点七姐妹瀑布。

Geirangerfjord

The Seven Sisters Waterfalls, part of Geirangerfjord

Unfortunately we didn’t hear about the fjord cruise that can take you close to the famous waterfalls.

可惜我们事前不知道可以乘船游玩峡湾，并到达那著名瀑布的近前。

After Ørnevegen, we continue northward to Eidsdal (below) where we took a ferry that crosses Norddalsfjorden to reach Velldal.

厄尔涅维根（Ørnevegen）之后，我们继续向北至艾兹达尔（Eidsdal）（下），从那里坐渡轮穿过Norddals峡湾前往韦德尔（Velldal）。峡湾之国的挪威轮渡发达，多数渡轮都可以接载车辆。游客开车上船后可以下车休息或上甲板观景。

Norddalsfjorden 穿越峡湾

From Velldal to Trollstigen, we stayed on Fv 63 which passed several pretty rivers and creeks.

从韦德尔（Velldal）到特罗尔斯蒂根（精灵之路），我们继续在63号公路上开，路径好些湍急的河流。

It was foggy and rainy when we arrived Trollstigen.  The visibility was so poor that we couldn’t seen anything in front of us.  We drove further down the road to the nearby town of Åndalsnes and stayed in Grand Hotel Bellevue (very good!).

我们到达特罗尔斯蒂根时遭遇雨和大雾（北欧多雨）， 能见度极差，近距离内都看不到任何景物。 我们于是继续前行至翁达尔内斯（Åndalsnes）镇，并在Grand Hotel Bellevue住下（非常好）。

July 1, we drove back to Trollstigen. It was still cloudy, but the visibility was better. It was scenic all the way.

七月一日早晨，重返精灵之路，虽然天气仍是阴沉，但能见度尚可。从翁达尔内斯到特罗尔斯蒂根一路风景宜人。

Trollstigen is part of the Norwegian Scenic Route Geiranger - Trollstigen. Again, it opens at the end of May and closes in October / November.

This is a winding mountain road that crosses many creeks and waterfalls and takes you up to the spectator on the mountain top. Each of the 11 hair-pin turns has its own name and offers fantastic views of mountain scenery.

又名“精灵之路”的特罗尔斯蒂根是一条曲折陡峭的山路，历经11道拐带你跨越溪流瀑布和古老石桥来到海拔852米的观景台，沿途风景震撼动人。

山路上的11个发夹弯道每个都有自己的名称，通常以监督该特定部分的施工人员的名字来命名。 

While we were driving up the mountain, the rain was on and off, leaving the road wet and slippery. Many Volunteers were working at each tun to direct the traffic.

那天仍然阴雨，山路湿滑，有很多志愿者在路边停车点指挥和协调车流。

Hard working cyclists riding all the way to the top of Trollstigen.

勇敢的单车爱好者在恶劣的天气里奋力蹬车到山顶，令人起敬。

对登山爱好者来说，这里有一条经过修复的远足路径。 这条经过翻新的古老山路可以直达山顶。

Once at the top, you walk through a well constructed facility (top left) to the spectator (top right) where you get panoramic views over the valley and waterfalls.

山顶上有诺大的停车场，餐厅和旅游商场。游人们可以走过长长的，修缮精美的栈道前往观景台。从观景台可以俯瞰整个山谷和瀑布溪流，景色壮观，令人难忘。

Together with Geiranger, the world famous Trollstigen is one of the most visited attractions in Norway.  

和盖朗厄尔一样，特罗尔斯蒂根精灵之路是挪威受访最多的景点之一。

Back to Åndalsnes from Trollstigen, we continued to be awed by the dynamic scenery.

从特罗尔斯蒂根返回翁达尔内斯的旅途仍然使我们多次驻足不前。

Åndalsnes （翁达尔内斯）

We ended up spending one extra night in Åndalsnes due to the weather. It’s a small town idyllically located in the valley of Romsdal by the Romsdalsfjord.  It is surrounded by high mountains and is very scenic. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to explore it.

翁达尔内斯是罗斯达尔峡湾边上的一个恬静的小镇，河流纵横，群山环绕。可惜我们没有时间多作探访。

July 2 We left in the early morning from Åndalsnes for Ålesund.  

七月二日晨我们离开翁达尔内斯开车前往奥勒松

（Ålesund）

奥勒松（Ålesund）是挪威西海岸的海港和枢纽城市。这里有航班飞往各重要城市。

Aksla on the mountain top gives you an impressive view of the city of Ålesund。

奥勒松室内有个地处山顶的景点阿克什拉（Aksla）。这里你可以居高临下地观赏美丽的奥勒松市。

From Ålesund, we flew to Lofoten to start the last leg of our trip in north Norway. 

从奥勒松我们将飞往罗弗敦（Lofoten），去完成挪威北部的最后一程。

To be continued

待续

22-Day Road Tour of Norway 22天挪威自驾游

Norway is a country with stunning landscape, and is known as land of fjords. We visited this amazing country in the summer of 2019, and did a self-driving trip.  We understood that driving a car is not the most environment-friendly way to travel Europe; some roads can be narrow and hard to drive.  But if you are so much into photography and want to have your own traveling pace, self-driving is the best way to do it.  Hiring a car is quite affordable in Scandinavia if you plan ahead.

挪威是一个风景迷人的国家，并且被誉为峡湾之地。 我们于2019年夏天来到这个久已仰之的国家，并作了22天的自驾之旅。 我们明白开车旅游欧洲不是一个十分环保的方式， 有时道路狭窄难行。 但是，如果你对摄影极其热衷，而且想对行程有更多掌控，那么自驾游就是更好的选择。 如果提前计划，在斯堪的纳维亚租车旅行其实是很实惠的。

We started from the capital, Oslo, drove through the areas of South and West Norway and reached Alesund in the center of West Norway. From Alesund we flew to Lofoten in North Norway and drove through the islands for 5 days. The entire journey lasted for 22 days, which was pretty tight in time.

我们从挪威首都奥斯陆出发，驶过挪威南部和西部地区，先到达西海岸居中的奥勒松（Alesund）， 再从奥勒松飞往北部的罗弗敦（Lofoten），自驾环游诸岛5天。 整个旅程耗时22天，时间是比较紧迫的。

First part，from Oslo to Alesund

第一部分，从奥斯陆到奥勒松

Before this trip we referenced a web site which listed 18 National Tourist Routes of Norway (https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/national-tourist-routes-of-norway.html) and incorporated 6 of them into our journey.  They are: 1. Hardanger (Steinsdalsfossen, Tyssedal, Odda), 2. Aurlandsfjellet (Aurlandsvangen–Lærdalsøyri), 3. Gamle Strynefjellsvegen (the old Stryne road), 4. Geiranger–Trollstigen, 5. Senja (Gryllefjord–Botnhamn),  6. Lofoten.

行前，我们参考了一个列有18条挪威国家旅游路线的网站（https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/national-tourist-routes-of-norway.html），并将其中6条纳入了我们的旅程。 它们是：1. 哈丹厄 （Hardanger）（Steinsdalsfossen，Tyssedal，Odda），2. 奥兰德菲耶尔 （Aurlandsvangen–Lærdalsøyri），3. 老斯特林山路（Gamle Strynefjellsvegen），4. 盖朗厄尔 - 精灵之路（Geiranger–Trollstigen），5. 塞尼亚-特罗姆瑟 （Senja，Tromso） 6. 罗弗敦

I hope this blog can give you some help if you plan to visit Norway.

如果有意访问挪威，希望这篇博客会对您有所帮助。

Part I, From Oslo To Stavanger

第一篇 奥斯陆到斯塔凡厄

We drove to Oslo from Sweden on June 16, 2019 and stayed there for two days. The city is very vibrant and also noisy. 

我们于2019年6月16日从瑞典驱车前往奥斯陆，并在那里呆了两天。 这是个非常有活力的城市，但也比较嘈杂。

Dusk of Oslo

Fram Museum in Oslo gives a glimpse of the history of the Norwegian polar expedition.

奥斯陆的弗拉姆博物馆（Fram Museum）展现了欧洲人极地探险的历史。

The wooden ship, Fram exhibited in the museum sailed farthest north and south.

弗拉姆（Fram）是博物馆展出的木质远航船，有着探险南北基地的记录。

Oslo fjord

On the third night we moved to Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel in the suburb of Oslo.  It’s located up high on a mountain and is much quieter than the city center. 

在奥斯陆的第三个晚上，我们移到了奥斯陆郊区，位于高山上的斯堪迪克-霍尔门科伦旅馆（Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel）。 它比市中心的旅馆要安静得多。

Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel

斯堪迪克-霍尔门科伦旅馆

The view of Oslo from Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel is very impressive.

从这里远眺奥斯陆景色宜人。

View from Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel

June 18th: We left Oslo and set out for Stavanger, a major tour city on the west coast of Norway.  We broke up this journey into three days: Day 1 and 2, Oslo to Telemark. Day3, Telemark to Stavanger. 

6月18日：我們離開奧斯陸，前往位于西海岸的主要旅遊城市斯塔凡厄。

我們从奥斯陆先上E18公路向西，继而接E134向Kongsberg方向行駛。

Drammen

Not far from Oslo, there is the lovely town of Drammen and Drammenselva (Drammen river).  Many residential areas and beautiful parks line the river. 

離奧斯陸不远，有个美麗的小镇德拉門（Drammen）和德拉門河。沿河是优美的公园和居民区。 

We reached the town of Haukeli in Telemark County on the first day

Further down E134 is Konsberg, a town located on the river Numedalslågen, at the entrance to the valley of Numedal.  There are waterfalls and beautiful river cascades here.

沿E134ji xu继续向西就是Konsberg，一個位於Numedalslågen河上的小鎮，处於Numedal山谷的入口處。 這裡美麗的河流和有瀑布。

Kongsberg

After a quick walk around the rivers and a lunch break in Kongsberg, we continue on E134 west towards Telemark County. 

匆匆游览了Kongsberg的河流瀑布，并简单午餐後，我們繼續沿E134向西前往泰萊馬克郡（Telemark County）。

The destination of our first day was Telemark, a mountain area in south Norway that is rich in history and natural scenery.

我们第一天的目的地是Telemark，這是挪威南部的一处歷史悠久，風光秀丽的山區。

Telemark的景觀丰富多变。 一天之內，我們駛過了高原農場，河流山谷和色彩斑斓的湖泊。

We reached Haukeli in the evening.  This is a small town at the junction of E134 and Rv9.  

傍晚我們来到了毫克立（Haukeli）。這是泰来马克郡内E134和Rv9交界處的一個小鎮。

Haukeli, Telemark

Mountain scenery, river cascades and mesmerizing lakes all gathered in this small area of Haukeli.

小小的区域内集聚了不同的景色：高山峡谷，瀑布河流和迷人的湖泊。

We stayed in Haukelifjell Guest House in the village of Vinje that is 20 km from Haukeli. It’s so beautiful and tranquil here that we decided to stay one extra night. This enabled us to explore the nearby historical town of Rjukin.

我們下榻在了距離Haukeli 十公里处的Haukelifjell客栈。 這裡的寧靜优美使我們临时决定多呆一晚，这样我們就有时间探访附近的歷史名鎮Rjukin。

Pond behind Haukelifjell Guest House

Scenery alone road Rv9

Driving a small distance on rv9, we arrived Rjukan, a small but extremely beautiful town in the valley of Mount Gausta.  Here you have the opportunity to explore the mountain railway, Gaustabanen or hike to the summit of Mount Gausta which is 6,177 feet (1800 meters) above sea level.

在Rv9上行驶了一段小距离后，我们来到了Rjukan。这是一个位于Gausta山谷里的美丽小镇。来到这里，你就有机会乘坐传奇性的Gaustabanen山中铁路，到达海拔6177英尺（1800米）的Gaustashan峰。

Rjukan

Gaustabanen is a unique railway that goes inside the Mount Gausta.  It consists of a cable car that runs approximately 860 meters up inside the mountain, and a shuttle line that rises to 1800 meters above sea level.

Gaustabanen是一条特殊的山体内铁路。它先是一道缆车，向上延伸约860米，然后转接驳车，上达海拔1800米。

Gaustabanen

This installation was completed in 1959 and used to ship staff and supplies to the NATO radio station based on the summit. It was financed mainly by American military grants, and cost one million US dollars to build from 1954 to 1959. It is now a tourist attraction. 

这个工程于1959年完成，当时作为军事设施用于运送人员和物资到山顶的北约广播电台。它的资金来源是美国军事基金，耗资一百万美元，耗时5年。现在它变成了一个旅游景点。

From the summit of 6,177 feet high, it is said that you can see one sixth of the entire Norwegian mainland.

Gaustatoppen is also a popular site for hiking and down-slope skiing.

Gaustatoppen还是当地人远足和滑雪的热门场所。

June 20, we drove a detour of scenic Rv 9 from Haukeli to Stavanger. 

6月20日，我们驱车从Haukeli绕道风景优美的9号公路前往斯塔凡厄。

From Telemark to Stavanger, we passed by different types of picturesque scenery, which took our breath away. 

从Telemark到斯塔凡厄（Stavanger），沿途风景变幻多姿

River rapids are everywhere

The lush valleys are mesmerizing 梦幻般的翠绿的山谷

Grass roofs are charming and unique 绿草覆盖的屋顶是北欧的特色风景

Winding mountain roads near Stavanger 蜿蜒山路通向斯达凡厄

Curious mountain goats came close to check us out. 路旁有好奇的山羊

Approaching Stavanger

接近斯达凡厄

Photo by cell phone

We arrived Stavanger in the evening of June 20th.  We stayed three nights at Radisson Blue and really enjoyed it. 

我们与6月20日傍晚到达斯达凡厄。下榻于Radisson Blue的三个晚上是令人愉快的。

In front of Radisson Blue Hotel

Stavanger is the fourth largest city and an important tour destination in Southwest Norway. 

斯塔凡厄是挪威西南地区的第四大城市和重要的旅游目的地。

One major activity in Stavanger is to visit Preikestolen (the Pulpit Rock).   The Preikestolen Plateau (the Pulpit Rock) is one of the most famous attractions in Norway. The majestic view from the top has been named one of the world’s most spectacular viewing points. 

斯塔凡厄的一个主要的旅游旅游活动是附近的景点布道石（Pulpit Rock）。布道石是挪威最著名的景观之一。爬到山顶可以看到周遭壮丽的峡湾景色，它是世界上受访人次最多的景点之一。

Travel season in this area is open from March to November.  To hike the Pulpit Rock, one can take bus (or drive a car) and ferry to get from Stavanger to Preikestolen. The Norled ferry goes from Fiskepirterminalen (ferry terminal in Stavanger) to Tau. There are buses or taxi that take the foot passengers from Tau ferry terminal to the trail head of Pulpit Rock.  For driving passengers, the ferry can take large number of vehicles.

该地区的旅游季节从3月至11月开放。要攀爬布道石，您可以乘公共汽车（或开车）并坐轮渡从斯塔凡厄到布道台（Preikestolen）。渡轮从Fiskepirterminalen（斯塔凡厄的渡轮码头）到Tau。有巴士或出租车将步行旅客从Tau轮渡码头载到布道石的步道起点。为驾车旅客，渡轮可以装载大量车辆。

The 40-minutes ferry ride was a lot of fun. The spacious and comfortable cabins, the delicious hot food and snacks, and the breath taking views on the deck left us good memories.

40分钟的渡轮令人兴味盎然，宽敞舒适的客舱，美味的热食和小吃，以及甲板上令人窒息的美景，给我们留下了美好的回忆。

Ferryboat sailing back to Stavanger

Hiking the Pulpit Rock is moderately strenuous; two hours one way.

攀爬步道石需要中等体力强度，单程二小时。

(For those just wanting to look at Pulpit Rock without to hiking up, there's a daily cruise from Stavanger to Lysefjorden.)

对于那些只一读步道石而不想徒步的游客来说，每天有从斯塔万格到Lysefjorden峡湾的游轮，从山下的峡湾驶过。

The hiking itself was enjoyable. The views were good all the way up and the trail was well marked.

徒步攀爬步道石是个很开心的过程。一路风景怡人，路径标示明确。

The are small lakes and creeks up high on the mountain. The trail was lush after the rain.

随处有高山湖泊和小溪。山道两旁郁郁葱葱。

Taking a peek

For hiking the rock, it is worth waiting for a day or two for a good weather. In a bad weather, you don’t see any thing from the top.

要想攀爬步道石的话，我认为值得为等一个好天气而停留一-二天。因为如果下雨会使山路艰险，大雾则会遮蔽所有景观。

Views from the top of Pulpit Rock is really rewarding.

步道石顶上的风景真是令人叹为观止！感到不虚此行。

For the convenience of hiking, it is better to stay 1 night near Pulpit Rock before the hiking day.  Preikestolen Mountain Lodge would be an option.

为方便起见，最好能再步道石附近村落宿一晚，这样可以节省轮渡的时间。布道台山旅馆是一个选择。

Coming down from the top in dusk

After hiking the Pulpit Rock, we caught the last ferry of the day going back to Stavenger. The sunset view from the ferryboat was spectacular!

远足步道石之后，我们赶上了回斯塔凡厄的最后一班渡轮。当晚的日落美景十分壮观！

The old town of Stavanger is very unique.  Make sure you have one morning or evening to enjoy it.

斯塔凡厄老城区也很特别。您需要留出一个早晨或傍晚来享受它。

Outside of Stavanger, there is the historical Utstine Monastery that is surrounded by beautiful landscape. Utstine Monastery is one of the attractions of Stavanger and is very worthwhile for spending half a day. 

在斯塔凡厄城外，有一座历史悠久的乌兹丁修道院，修道院古朴庄严，四周风景优美，令人流连忘返。乌斯廷修道院也是斯塔凡厄的景点之一，值得花费半天时间。

Utstine Monastery

Nearby is the Utstine Kloster Hotel. We stayed here for one night before leaving this area. It was great! Quite, cozy and affordable. 

乌兹丁修道院近旁有一个乌兹丁客栈。我们在这里留宿了一晚，非常享受。它虽然简朴但静谧优雅，水景怡人，且价格低廉。

Utstine Kloster Hotel

To be continued. 待续。

To be continued

22-Day Road Tour of Norway III

Part III From Bergen to Geiranger

挪威自驾游三：从卑尔根到盖朗厄尔

Aurlandfjord 艾于兰湾

Aurlandsfjellet

Driving from Bergen to Geirangerfjord allowed us to cover some of Norway’s important Scenic Routes, such as Fv7  (Steinsdalsfossen - Granvin) and Aurlandsfjellet (Flam - Lærdal).

从卑尔根开车到盖朗厄尔峡湾可以覆盖一些重要的挪威风景路线，如Fv7（Steinsdalsfossen-Granvin）和Aurlandsfjellet（Flam-Lærdal）。

We broke this journey up to three sections: Bergen to Flam, Flam to Leikanger Fjord, and Leikanger to Geiranger.

我们将这段行程分为三个部分：卑尔根 - 弗拉姆，弗拉姆 - 莱甘厄尔峡湾，莱甘厄尔 - 盖朗厄尔

June 25th

From Bergen, we took E16 west and switch to fv7, a scenic detour towards Hardangerfjord. 

六月25日

我们从卑尔根取道E16公路向西绕道Fv7公路重回哈当厄尔湾。

Near Hardangerfjord, there is a waterfall, Steinsdallsfossen  (The Stone Valley Falls) which marks the beginning of the scenic route between Steinsdalsfossen and Granvin.

Steinsdalsfossen is located in a charming village called Steine which is 2 km west of the town of Norheimsund. 

在哈当厄尔峡湾附近，有个瀑布石谷瀑布（Steinsdallsfossen），标志着Steinsdalsfossen到Granvin之间风景路线的起始。 瀑布位于一个名为Steine的美丽村庄，距峡湾边的Norheimsund以西2公里。

From the parking site, there is a nice footpath that crosses the river to the base of waterfall. The waterfall is 50 m high and is very loud.  

从停车场，有一条步道，跨过小河流带你来到瀑布底部。瀑布高50 m，响声隆隆。

There is a path on the right side of the falls that takes you up high and behind the waterfall.  From there you get the overview of the river and the village.

瀑布的侧面又有一条步道带你上行到高处和瀑布的后面。从那里你可以透过瀑布看到河流和村庄。

From Steinsdalsfossen, we continue on fv7 and drive along the beautiful Hardangerfjord.

从石谷瀑布我们沿Fv7公路开往美丽的哈当厄尔湾

The landscape here alternates between the dramatic and the gentle, from thundering waterfalls to the fjord side vineyards. 

这里的风景千变万化，从柔和优美的水边农庄到雄伟的山崖瀑布。

From Hardangerfjord, we went back to E16 and drove toward Flåm. Right on the road side of E16, we hit the gorgeous Tvindefossen waterfall.

Tvindefossen waterfall is a 152m high waterfall that tumbles down in strands with a graceful character.

From Bergen to Flam, we also drove through extra long tunnels, some as long as 25 km.  Some segments have beautiful lightings that prevent one from falling asleep.

从卑尔根到弗洛姆，我们还穿过了超长的隧道，有些长达25公里。有些路段上有漂亮的灯光，也许是可防止驾车人睡着。

Beautiful Norway tunnel

Flåm: 

Flåm is a village sitting at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the vast Sognefjord.  It’s known for its fjords and nearby mountain scenery.  

弗洛姆（Flåm）是一个村庄，坐落在松恩峡湾（Sognefjord）的分支艾于兰湾（Aurlandsfjord）的尽头。它以峡湾和山景而闻名。

One most important attraction near Flåm is the Stegastein viewing platform. From Flåm, take E16 and drive up north, after passing a steep zigzag mountain road, you will reach to a view point that is 650 m above Aurlandsfjord. 

弗洛姆（Flåm）附近最重要的景点是斯蒂加斯坦（Stegastein）观景台。从弗洛姆（Flåm）出发，沿E16公路向北，沿陡峭的山路上行，就可到达艾于兰湾上方650 m的观景台。

Stegastein Viewing Platform

The same evening we arrived Flam, we drove up to Stegastein. The panorama view out over Aurlandsfjord simply took away our breath. 

到达弗洛姆的当天，我们就开车去了斯蒂加斯坦观景台。突出于峡湾之上的观景台让你把艾于兰湾的广角全景尽收眼底。

The sunset over Aurlandsfjord was unforgettable.

艾于兰湾日落美不胜收

The Flåm Railway:

The Flåm Railway is a high light in Flåm. The train ride takes you from Flåm at the fjord level to Myrdal on the high mountain of 867 m.  It offers amazing views continuously as it climbs to a station on the Hardangervidda plateau.

弗洛姆观光铁路是弗洛姆的一大亮点。火车带你从海平面的弗洛姆上升到海拔867米的米尔达尔（Myrdal）。在上行至Hardangervidda高原的过程中，它带给你变幻多姿的高原景色。

Photo downloaded from the official web site of the Flåm Railway 照片来自网络资料

This mountain railway was named by National Geographic Traveler Magazine as one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe.

这条高山铁路被《国家地理》杂志评为欧洲十大火车旅行线路之一。

Kjosfossen (above) is a major highlight of Flam Railway (Flåmsbana). The train stops here for five minutes for passengers to get off and take photos in front of this enormous waterfall. My camera and lens got so wet when I tried to take a lone-exposure photo of the waterfall.

Kjosfossen（上）是弗洛姆观光火车（Flåmsbana）的一大亮点。火车在这里停留五分钟，让乘客下车拍照留念。瀑布距离火车道很近，水流大极了，以致拍摄这张照片时，相机和镜头都打湿了。

Flåm is a place that has the combination of extremes. Besides the mountain scenery, it’s fjord landscape is also dramatic.

弗洛姆（Flåm）是一个集各种极致景观于一身的地方。除了山景之外，附近的峡湾也很美丽壮观。

The fjord cruise is another popular activity here.  A round trip from Flåm to Gudvangen takes you out to the UNESCO listed Aurlandsfjord and the adjacent Nærøyfjord.

峡湾巡游是这里另一个备受欢迎的活动。从弗洛姆（Flåm）到古德温根（Gudvangen）的往返游船带你观赏艾于兰湾（世界遗产）和相邻的纳柔依峡湾（Nærøyfjord）。

Flåm fjord cruise starts from Flåm and ends in Gudvangen 始于弗洛姆终于古德温根的峡湾船游

It starts from Flåm in the broad Aurlandsfjord with steep mountains. The boat then turn left to enter the narrow Nærøyfjord that is more elegant.

游船先从弗洛姆进入宽阔的艾于兰湾，再向左拐入狭窄的纳柔依峡湾。

Aurlandford

The narrow Nærøyfjord is even more impressive. Waterfalls drop from the mountains down to the still fjord water, scattered colorful buildings reflected on the mirror like water surface. 

狭窄的纳柔依峡湾更吸引人。瀑布从山崖坠入峡湾，岸边彩色的民居倒映在镜面似的海水上。

6/27, after two nights in Flåm and the fjord cruise in the morning we left Flåm and set out towards the famous Geiranger. The first part of the journey was Aurlandsfjellet which is one of the National Tourist Routes of Norway (https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/national-tourist-routes-of-norway.html) , that runs between Aurlandsvangen by the Aurlandsfjord and Lærdal by the Sognefjord, with a length of 49km. 

6/27，在弗洛姆（Flåm）住一晚后，我们离开弗洛姆（Flåm）前往著名的盖朗厄尔（Geiranger）。此行程的第一部分是奥兰兹菲尔（Aurlandsfjellet），它是挪威国家风景线路之一。见下。

The Stegastein viewpoint marks the beginning of this route.  After passing Stegastein, the landscape suddenly changed; the road literally became empty.  

斯蒂加斯坦观景台是这段景观路的起始。过了Stegastein之后不久，画风突然变化：道路两边突然变得空旷。

This road over Aurlandsfjellet is a journey across a barren plateau through a desolate landscape. The road goes higher and higher. There was not much life to be seen, just snow, rocks and the occasional sprig of grass: such beauty of pure wildness!  

这条跨越奥兰兹菲尔的道路是荒野高原的穿越。道路越走越高，生命也越来越少。放眼望去看到的只是雪，岩石和少量荒草，有一种令人震撼的荒野之美！

This national tourist route from Flam to Lærdalsøyri is also called Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road as it keeps man-high snow along the edges even during the summer time.

从弗洛姆到拉尔达索里（Lærdalsøyri）的这条旅游路线也被称为``奥兰兹菲尔雪路“，因为即使在夏季，路边也保持着一人高的积雪。

Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road

This road is closed in winter and reopened in June.  We were fortunate enough to there in July and witnessed its amazing scenery. 

这条风景路线在冬季是关闭的，次年6月才重新开放。 我们有幸在七月来到这里，见证了它令人惊叹的美。

The Aurlandsfjellet Snow Road ends in Lærdalsøyri. From there we took fv55 to continue driving along the beautiful Sogndalfjord.  

奥兰兹菲尔雪路止于Lærdalsøyri。从那里我们沿Fv55号公路行驶于美丽的松恩峡湾岸边。

We stopped in Leikanger, which is between Flam and Geiranger.  We stayed one night in the beautiful Leikanger Fjord Hotel, a nice and cozy hotel sitting on the picturesque Sogndalfjord.  

我们在弗洛姆和盖朗厄尔之间的莱坎格停了下来，并下榻于美丽的莱甘尔峡湾酒店（Leikanger Fjord Hotel）。这是一家优雅舒适的旅馆，坐落在风景如画的松恩峡湾岸边。

Leikanger Fjord Hotel 莱甘尔峡湾酒店

Leikanger Fjord Hotel. Our room faced the fjord which was so tranquil. 我们的客房正对着宁静美丽的峡湾

Leikanger Fjord Hotel

On June 28th, we took fv55 again and drove back along the fjord. It soon hit highway 5, where we turned up north towards Geiranger.  

6月28日，我们沿fv55顺着峡湾往回开， 很快我们接上5号公路，从那儿向北驶向盖朗厄尔。

Fv55 along Sogndalfjord is beautiful!

Near the village of Sogndalfjora, there is a lovely waterfront tent hotel

在松恩峡湾边上，我们看到一个可爱的帐篷旅馆。

After driving Highway 5 and E39, we turned on to Fv63 towards Geiranger. Fv63 near Geiranger is another classic scenic road.

经过5号和E39号公路，我们接上通向盖朗厄尔的Fv63号路。这又是一条挪威的景点景观路线。

一路田园风光怡人

接近盖朗厄尔时，地貌显得跌宕起伏

Rv63 near Geiranger

Norway is a country of fjords that are all beautiful.  But Geirangerfjord is the most special of all; and is, therefore, more crowded.  

挪威有很多美丽的峡湾， 但是盖朗厄尔峡湾却尤其特别， 因此游客也更多。

The terrain here is more dramatic.  It’s very photogenic from different angles all around the fjord.

这里的地貌更为夸张，可以从各个角度拍摄到美好景观。

To be continued 待续

22-Day Road Tour of Norway II

Part II From Stavanger to Bergen

挪威自驾二：从斯达凡厄到卑尔根

After visiting Stavanger and Pulpit Rock we headed north towards Hardanger and Bergen.

继斯塔凡厄和布道石之后，我们向北前往哈当厄尔和卑尔根。

Our first stop was Tyssedal/Odda in Hardanger area.

我们的第一站是哈当厄尔湾的Odda（奥达）

Leaving Stavanger on E39。沿E39公路离开斯达凡厄

斯达凡厄周边很美

As one of the 18 National Tourist Routes, Hardanger Scenic Route includes Fv7, Fv 49, Fv 550, and Rv13, that run through Granvin, Steinsdalsfossen, Norheimsund – Tørvikbygd, Jondal – Utne and Kinsarvik – Odda – Låtefoss. The total length is 158 kilometer. 

作为18条国家旅游路线之一，哈当厄尔风景区路线包括Fv7，Fv 49，Fv 550和Rv13，它们贯穿Granvin，Steinsdalsfossen，Norheimsund –Tørvikbygd，Jondal – Utne，Kinsarvik – Odda –Låtefoss 等地区。全长158公里。

For the first day we only drove part of it along the bank of Sorfjord.

第一天，我们只开了其中一部分：Fv7和Rv3号公路

We tried to reach Odda, a famous tour destination in Hardanger area. But we couldn’t find lodging without pre booking. So we bumped into a road side hotel near Odda.

我们试图抵达哈当厄尔地区的著名小镇奥达，但由于没有预定旅馆，又找不到合适的住处，我们就在奥达附近的Tyssedal Hotel将就一晚。

Tyssedal Hotel and the power plant next to it

Tyssedal Hotel is 30 km from Odda, and is situated on the shore of Sorfjorden (attribute to Hardangerfjord).  This hotel was part of the establishment of a historical Hydro Power Plant nearby.  

Tyssedal 旅店距离奥达（Odda）10公里，位于苏尔湾（哈当厄湾侧枝）的岸边。这家旅馆的附近是现为历史遗址的水力发电厂。

Our room wasn’t super good, but the history of the hotel is very impressive.  This historical hotel is home to a spectacular collection of the original art by Geir Grung.

我们的房间不算太好，但是这旅馆的历史令人刮目相看。这家历史悠久的酒店是盖尔·格伦（Geir Grung）的艺术收藏地。

We were toured the hotel and shown the art collection of Geir Grung who once resided here.

旅馆员工向我们展示了曾经居住在这里的盖尔·格朗的艺术作品。

Artwork By Geir Grung 盖尔·格朗的代表作

Geir Grung was a legendary figure in the modern history of Norway. He was not only an artist, but also one of Norway’s best known architects who played a significant role in the context of hydro power development.

盖尔·格伦是挪威当代的传奇人物。他不仅是一位艺术家，而且还是挪威最著名的建筑师之一，他曾在水电发展上起过重要作用。

30km up on Rv13 from Tyssedal is Odda

Tyssedal 向南10公里不到就是奥达（Odda）

Odda’s mirror like fjord water with colorful reflections was mesmerizing!

奥达坐落在苏尔湾边。错落有致的民居倒映在明镜似的海水上展现出梦幻般的画面。

Nian in Odda

Sitting on Hardangerfjord, Odda is like a shining pearl. It’s worth staying two nights here, or a night in Lofthus which is about 60 km south to Odda.

峡湾边的奥达像一颗明珠，值得在此逗留两晚。或者在35公里外的Lofthus住一晚也不错（Hotel Ullensvang）

Odda is a famous tour destination, partly due to the nearby Trolltunga rock (below)

奥达成为一个著名旅游目的地主要原因是它附近的Trolltunga Rock（山妖石）见下

Photo downloaded from Trolltunga travel web site

The hike up to Trolltunga (1180 m) is long and demanding, 6-7 hours one way.  It is said that the view on the top is very rewarding.  Unfortunately that is beyond my ability. So we passed it.

June 24, we continue on Rv13 and drove toward Bergen.

6月24日我们沿Rv3开往卑尔根

 

From Hardanger to Bergen, we passed the lovely town of Voss which is situated at the junction of Rv13 and E16. Voss sits on a small lake that is so tranquil and beautiful! 

Unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore the area, and we didn’t even find a place to stop for lunch.

从哈当厄尔（Hardanger）到卑尔根（Bergen），我们经过了可爱的小镇沃斯（Voss）。它位于Rv13和E16的交界处。沃斯坐落在一个宁静而美丽的小湖上。 不幸的是，我们没有时间探访这地区，甚至没找到停车吃饭的地方。

Voss

We arrived Bergen in the evening of June 24th.  

Bergen is the second largest city of Norway and was the country’s capital in the 12th and 13th centuries.  It has the charm of a small town, as well as the vibrancy of an urban city.

我们于6月24日傍晚抵达卑尔根（Bergen）。

卑尔根是挪威第二大城市，在12、13世纪时曾是挪威的首都。它具有小镇的魅力以及大城市的活力。

Bergen

Located in the west coast, Bergen is known as the capital of fjord Norway and has the nickname as “The heart of the fjords”.

It has fascinating history, architecture and natural beauty

位于挪威西海岸的卑尔根被誉为峡湾的首都，绰号“峡湾的心脏”。 它具有悠久的历史，独特的建筑风格和自然美景

Bryggen

The top attraction in Bergen is its historical old town, Bryggen, a UNESCO heritage site.  Bryggen was a fishing port on the west coast of Norway. It was established as a centre for trade by the 12th century and was one of the oldest port cities of Europe and the only one preserved today.  

卑尔根最著名的景点是其历史城区布吕根。布吕根是挪威西海岸的一个古老渔港，被列为世界遗产。作为欧洲最古老的港口之一，布吕根曾在12世纪被确立为贸易中心，也是今天唯一保存下来的欧洲古渔港。

The buildings are made of wood and are all connected to each other, painted into bright colors and kept with vernacular traditions.

布吕根的建筑物都是木结构，保留当年的简约风格。房屋彼此相连，外观色彩斑斓。

As the center of fjords, Bergen offers a lot of tourism oppertunities. From here you can take numerous fjord cruises, or ferries to other coastal cities including Stavanger and Alesund. The long distance ferries can take cars and passengers, which we didn’t know beforehand.

作为峡湾的中心，卑尔根提供了很多旅游机会。许多峡湾游船从这里出发，还有各种轮渡前往斯塔凡厄和奥勒松等其他沿海城市。

They also offer the program of “Norway in a Nutshell” that is a combination of mountain railway and fjord cruises.

他们还提供“挪威一揽子”的游览计划，囊括铁路观光和峡湾巡游。

To be continued 待续